Thursday, October 20, 2011

REPTILE CONTEST

The ReptileChannel “Reptile-Loving Zombies Unite!” Halloween Photo Contest



By Russ Case
Despite the decomposition, zombies are people, too. And like ordinary folk, many love reptiles! That’s what we want to show in our 2011 Halloween photo contest!
How to EnterE-mail photos of yourself, friends, children or relatives in zombie makeup, holding a reptile or reptiles. Submit as many photos as you like. Eligible submissions will be posted on this page. They may also appear on the REPTILES or ReptileChannel Facebook pages.
A sign reading “Reptile-Loving Zombies Unite for ReptileChannel.com” must be visible in the photo. It must be an actual sign, not a caption or type that has otherwise been added electronically to the photo. This is so we know the photo was taken for the contest, and that it was not taken from the Internet.
After the deadline, we’ll choose our two favorite photos, and the two people who submitted them will receive six free books of their choice from the Advanced Vivarium Systems catalog! Available AVS titles can be viewed in the BowTie Press catalog here.
Important InfoThe UNDEADline to submit photos is 12 p.m., PST, ON FRIDAY, OCTOBER 28.
By e-mailing your photos to reptiles@bowtieinc.com, you are stating that the photos are your property, and, if applicable, that you have the permission of the people in the photos to submit them. After submission, the photos become the property of BowTie Inc. Once they have been submitted, BowTie is not responsible for any third-party claims to photo ownership.
The people who submit the winning photos are the people who will be contacted and who will win the prizes. Winners will be notified by e-mail.
E-mail submissions must include your name, address, telephone number and e-mail address. Type “ZOMBIE PIC” in the subject field.
Check this page for a link to the contest entrants submissions.
NOW GET YOUR ZOMBIE ON, AND LET’S SEE SOME GREAT PHOTOS! HAVE FUN AND GOOD LUCK!

GOT FROM: http://www.reptilechannel.com/reptile-contests/halloween-costume-contest-2011.aspx

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Anole Fight

Frog Skin That Treats Cancer?

Scientists Unlock Potential Of Frog Skin To Treat Cancer

Proteins in Phyllomedusa X sauvagii and Bombina X maxima stimulate or inhibit blood vessel growth

October 14, 2011


Click image to enlargewaxy monkey frog (Phyllomedusa sauvagii)
Waxy monkey frogs. Photo courtesy Petra Karstedt/Tiermotive.de.
Scientists in Northern Ireland, based at Queen's University Belfast, have discovered proteins in the skins of two species of frog that could be used to treat cancer, diabetes, and strokes, as well as assisting transplant patients by regulating the growth of blood vessels.
The award-winning research, led by Professor Chris Shaw at Queen's School of Pharmacy, has identified two short protein chains, technically known as peptides, which can be used in a controlled and targeted way to regulate angiogenesis - the process by which blood vessels grow in the body. The discovery holds the potential to develop new treatments for more than seventy major diseases and conditions that affect over one billion people worldwide.
Mechanisms Of ActionThe proteins have been found in secretions present on the skins of the waxy monkey frog (Phyllomedusa sauvagii), which originates from South America, and also the giant firebellied toad (Bombina maxima) found in China. Scientists capture the frogs and gently extract the secretions, before releasing them back in to the wild. The frogs are not harmed in any way during this process.
Professor Shaw said: "The proteins that we have discovered have the ability to either stimulate or inhibit the growth of blood vessels. By 'switching off' angiogenesis and inhibiting blood vessel growth, a protein from the waxy monkey frog has the potential to kill cancer tumors.
"Most cancer tumors can only grow to a certain size before they need blood vessels to grow into the tumor to supply it with vital oxygen and nutrients. Stopping the blood vessels from growing will make the tumor less likely to spread and may eventually kill it. This could therefore transform cancer from a terminal illness into a chronic condition."
The secretion from the firebellied toad operates in a different way. "The protein identified in the case of the giant firebellied toad has been found to 'switch on' angiogenesis and stimulate blood vessel growth. This has the potential to treat an array of diseases and conditions that require blood vessels to repair quickly, such as wound healing, organ transplants, diabetic ulcers, and damage caused by strokes or heart conditions," said Shaw.
The Value Of This ResearchExplaining how his research team looks to the natural world to solve problems where other methods of drug discovery have failed, Professor Shaw said: "Because of its huge potential, angiogenesis has been a prime target for drugs development research over the past forty years.
"But despite an investment of around $4-5 billion by scientists and drugs companies around the world, they have yet to develop a drug that can effectively target, control and regulate the growth of blood vessels.
"The aim of our work here at Queen's University is to unlock the potential of the natural world - in this case the secretions found on frog and toad skins - so as to alleviate human suffering. We are absolutely convinced that the natural world holds the solutions to many of our problems.
"We just need to pose the right questions to find them," he added. "It would be a great shame to have something in nature that is potentially the wonder drug to treat cancer and not aim to do everything in our power to make it work."
Got From: http://www.reptilechannel.com/reptile-news/2011/10/14/frog-skin-proteins-potential-cancer-cure.aspx

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

State Reptiles

Got From: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_U.S._state_reptiles
AlabamaAlabama red-bellied turtlePseudemys alabamensis1990Endangered
ArizonaArizona ridge-nosed rattlesnakeCrotalus willardi
subspecies willardi
1986Least Concern
CaliforniaDesert tortoiseGopherus agassizii1972Vulnerable
ColoradoWestern painted turtleChrysemys picta
subspecies belli
2008Least Concern
FloridaAmerican alligator
(state reptile)
Alligator mississippiensis1987Least Concern
FloridaLoggerhead sea turtle
(state saltwater reptile)
Caretta caretta2008Endangered
FloridaGopher tortoise
(state tortoise)
Gopherus polyphemus2008Vulnerable
GeorgiaGopher tortoiseGopherus polyphemus1989Vulnerable
IllinoisPainted turtleChrysemys picta2005Least Concern
KansasOrnate box turtleTerrapene ornata1986Near Threatened
LouisianaAmerican alligatorAlligator mississippiensis1983Least Concern
MarylandDiamondback terrapinMalaclemys terrapin1994Near Threatened
MassachusettsGarter snakeThamnophis
(whole genus)
2006Least Concern
MichiganPainted turtleChrysemys picta1995Least Concern
MississippiAmerican alligatorAlligator mississippiensis2005Least Concern
MissouriThree-toed box turtleTerrapene carolina
subspecies triunguis
2007Near Threatened
NevadaDesert tortoiseGopherus agassizii1989Vulnerable
New MexicoNew Mexico whiptail lizardCnemidophorus neomexicanus2003Least Concern
New YorkCommon snapping turtleChelydra serpentina2006Least Concern
North CarolinaEastern box turtleTerrapene carolina
subspecies carolina
1979Near Threatened
OhioNorthern black racerColuber constrictor
subspecies constrictor
1995Least Concern
OklahomaCommon collared lizardCrotaphytus
(whole genus)
1969Least Concern
South CarolinaLoggerhead sea turtleCaretta caretta1988Endangered
TennesseeEastern box turtleTerrapene carolina
subspecies carolina
1995Near Threatened
TexasTexas horned lizardPhrynosoma cornutum1993Least Concern
VermontPainted turtleChrysemys picta1994Least Concern
West VirginiaTimber rattlesnakeCrotalus horridus2008Least Concern
WyomingHorned lizardPhrynosoma
(whole genus)
1993Least Concern

Reptile Health

Check out these articles on basic reptile health. The articles here pertain to most reptile and amphibian species. If you are looking for specific health articles for snakes, lizards, amphibians, and turtles and tortoises, click on the proper tab for that section on this page.
Reptile Health

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Red Tailed Boa

Caring for the Red Tailed Boa Constrictor

Boa constrictor imperator is one of the more beautiful constrictors

By John Bergman
October 10, 2011


REPTILES MagazineI was 17 years old when I entered a pet store to buy bird food and a mouse for my gopher snake. The owner, a big guy who introduced himself as Rich Ihle, approached me in the bird department. "If you like those birds," he said. "You will really like this." He took me to the other side of the store and placed a female red-tail boa (Boa constrictor imperator) in my hand. She was incredibly smooth compared to the snakes I'd grown up with in Arizona, and she sat calmly in my hands, studying me while I studied her. Within the hour I put money down on the snake, and I immediately started planning how to get another. Her name was Ruby, and she was the foundation of my boa colony for the next 11 years.
That encounter with Rich was 22 years ago. Now I'm the manager of his websites. I have made boa constrictors a lifelong passion, and working with a large number of them has taught me a ton about husbandry.
Click image to enlargealbino blood boa constrictor
This albino blood boa is the first ever produced. It is a combination of a blood boa from Central America and a Sharp-strain albino boa.
Cold-Blooded FactsBoa constrictors (Boa constrictor ssp.) are ectotherms, which means they rely on external resources to maintain their body temperatures. When a boa senses its body needs warmth, it goes in search of warmer conditions, such as a basking spot. It may only sit in that spot for 20 minutes, but instinctively it knows how long it needs to be there to maintain a certain temperature.
In captivity snakekeepers have to provide the necessary temperature options for their boas, so the reptiles can decide what temperature they need at any given time. If owners don't give their boas access to these options, including a warm enough basking spot, their pets could encounter health problems such as parasites, which can quickly wreak havoc if not dealt with as soon as symptoms are noticed.
A boa enclosure's ideal ambient air temperature is about 84 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. The basking spot should be between 95 to 100 degrees, and the cool side should drop to 83 to 84 degrees.
With these temperature ranges, your boa should spend a sufficient amount of time on each side of the enclosure depending on its feeding schedule and humidity regimen. If your boa spends all of its time on the cool or hot side of its cage, that's a good indication something is wrong. Generally speaking, if your boa never leaves the basking spot, then the basking temperature might be too low, or the boa might be suffering from an illness, causing it to seek constant warmth.
Click image to enlargeboa constrictor
A close look at the scales of this 12-week-old coral sunglow male's sides reveals white and pink scales. Someday they will turn rich-pink and red-coral colors.
Enclosure NecessitiesMy personal rule of thumb is to provide an enclosure large enough for the boa to coil completely under the basking site and still have enough room for at least three-fourths of the cage floor to be a cooler temperature. Many caging and heating options are available. Rack systems with stackable plastic cages work great for medium to large boa collections. They are simple to organize and keep clean.
Years ago, aquariums were the way to keep boas. A 10-gallon aquarium was - and still is - an ideal size for one baby boa. The only problem with aquariums is their screen lids; they don't hold in humidity. I recommend that aquarium-users make a new top out of pegboard. This material retains humidity while allowing adequate air circulation. A fluorescent lighting fixture is simple to attach, and handles can be added to the top for ease of use.
A better option for housing a new baby boa is a rubber storage container. My company uses 12-quart Rubbermaid storage containers to house baby boas up to 6 months old. Then they're moved into 28-quart sweaterboxes until they require larger quarters. Our baby-snake room is constructed with custom pegboard shelves built by Rich. Flexwatt heat tape is securely fastened along the back of the shelf, which heats just one-fourth of each baby box.
Once your red-tail boa measures 3 or 4 feet in length, it needs adult-sized caging. A sufficient-sized cage for adult boas measuring up to 8 feet long is a container with 8 square feet of floor space, such as containers measuring 4 feet by 2 feet. A cage height between 18 and 24 inches is OK. For boas longer than 8 feet, we have a number of rubber containers measuring 6 feet long by 2 feet wide by 2 feet tall. These are stacked in custom rack systems that provide excellent air circulation and temperature control.
Substrate depends on the snake's age. We use aspen bedding for babies and juveniles. Once they are adults ready to breed, we use corrugated cardboard because it is easy to clean. Also there aren't particles, which can get in the way of the snakes' copulation. Newspaper is another good substrate option. Although many snakekeepers offer their snakes hides, we do not because we feel it makes them more reclusive and shy. However, our snakes are kept in a rack system, so they aren't as exposed as those in display enclosures.
Click image to enlargeboa constrictor
This sunglow male was born from a pair of adult Kahl-strain sunglows. His grandfather was a coral sunglow and his father was a Kahl sunglow.
Keep It TropicalBoa constrictors come from the rain forests and jungles of Central and South America where water is abundant in liquid form and in the air as humidity. Thus fresh-filtered drinking water and proper humidity are essential to the survival and health of captive boa constrictors. Fresh, humid air is critical to their respiratory system.
Boas do best with humidity ranging between 60 and 80 percent; occasionally it can go higher. Accomplish this humidity with a spray bottle and daily misting, with a more elaborate electric humidifier, or even with a complete open-air system that pushes evaporative cooled air through the enclosure. Evaporative cooled air is also called "swamp cooling," and it is essentially air pulled through damp pads to increase the air's moisture level as it flows into a structure.
Our facility is a perfect example of an open-air system. It includes an evaporative cooler that draws air into the building, a second evaporative cooler that pushes air from the front room to the main room, and then an industrial exhaust fan that pushes the air out of the building. Fans are strategically placed to maximize airflow in every square inch of the facility. If you have this option in your home, or at least in the boa collection room, use it to increase the overall air humidity.
Healthy Food ChoicesCaptive boa constrictors readily accept rodents. Although those keeping larger constrictors are often required to feed rabbits and pigs, the red-tail boa doesn't reach a size that necessitates this, and rats and mice are usually sufficient.
Some hobbyists feed their snakes live rodents and some feed thawed, previously frozen rodents. Live rodents present many more risks than the frozen variety. They might bite or scratch the snake, or seriously injure it by chewing on its skin and muscle. If feeding live prey to your boa, always keep an eye on the event at least until the snake constricts and kills its meal.
The simplest and safest way to feed your snakes is with thawed, previously frozen prey items. These are available in small frozen packs at your local pet store, online or through a local distributor.

Click image to enlargeboa racks
The author keeps baby boas in 12-quart rubber storage containers. Once the snakes reach 3 to 4 months old, they are moved to a 28-quart sweaterbox container.

A boa's growth rate is dependent not only on its genetics but also on its feeding program. Boas fed every week and kept in a warm, humid environment grow faster than boas fed twice a month and kept only moderately warm to the point they cannot properly thermoregulate.
Some hobbyists try to speed up their boas' growth to get them to breeding size much sooner than normal by manipulating external variables. This is not a good practice because it can shorten the boa's life by forcing its organs to grow too quickly to support the rest of the body.
It is best to offer regular weekly meals for baby boas and then settle into a maintenance feeding schedule for older males and breeding females. The ideal feeding schedule for a baby boa is every five to seven days, and then feed them once weekly through their adult life. A good rule of thumb regarding prey selection is to choose a meal the same width or just slightly bigger than the thickest part of the snake's body. Baby boas do great on hopper mice at first, and adults average one to two jumbo-sized rats per week.
Health WatchIt's important to observe your boa and learn its patterns and habits. Note its routines, such as what time of day it resides on the cage's cool side or when it is hungry and cruising around its enclosure. By logging or journaling events such as feeding, defecating and shedding, you will learn to predict behaviors and diagnosis problems or potential negative situations quicker.
For example, if you know that boas are normally quiet creatures with a clean nose and face, you can respond faster when you hear a cough, or see a runny or constricted nostril.
Remember, a healthy boa kept in the proper heat and humidity almost always sheds a complete skin. If your boa sheds in small pieces, you must determine whether the cause is a lack of heat, humidity or something worse.
Boakeepers' most dreaded fear should be mites. These tiny insects feed on the blood of snakes and lizards. They look like a single, round piece of pepper, and they're usually first detected in a boa's water bowl. Mites are heavily suspected of transmitting inclusion body disease from boa to boa. Often nicknamed "reptile AIDS," IBD is a fatal disease in boas with no known cure. There are many efforts in the boa community to develop early detection strategies and/or vaccines that will prevent IBD from destroying a boa or python. Make sure your reptile veterinarian is familiar with the efforts being made to fight against this deadly disease. The bottom line is that if one boa with IBD is infected with mites, every nearby boa that comes in contact with a mite has a significant chance of contracting IBD and/or other related infections.
Red-tail boas are incredibly beautiful animals. They can be resilient when cared for properly, yet they also can be the most fragile of creatures when neglected and mismanaged. If you continue to search out new information, provide proper captive care and use common sense while observing your boas, they will reward you for many years. REPTILES
Got From: http://www.reptilechannel.com/snakes/snake-care/boa-constrictor-caring-for.aspx